A preface: as is my penchant, I have probably put more photos than necessary up. However, since this is my project and I have no one to limit me except for myself, I have indulged my fancy. After all, if this is one of my 'worse' habits, I don't think there's too much cause for worry.
Saturday, 3 December, 2011 - Lauren and I woke up to an overcast, damp, and chilly morning, but having anticipated this we were amply bundled to take on the day. After an on-site breakfast, we headed out to the Grote Markt, the Market Square, where markets have been held since the 10th century and continue to be held every Saturday.
Walk to the Market Square
Market Square, looking north, east, and south, respectively: guild houses - now with restaurants, the Provincial Court, and the Belfort
By the way, I didn't notice before how the Belfort fades from red to grey as it goes up. Being the focal point of the town, there are all sorts of interesting things associated with this square and the surrounding buildings. A canal came up right behind the Provincial Court, then the Waterhalle, until the 1780s when it was filled in. The Waterhalle burned in the late 19th century and the Neo-Medieval building to replace it was redesigned by Louis Delacenserie, the same man responsible for much of the restoration of medieval Brugge. The Provincial Court, the Provinciaal Hof, now serves as administrative offices for the province of West Flanders. Also on the square, the Craenenburg (on the west) held Archduke Maximilian of Austria in 1488. I'm always fascinated to see how far across Europe the Habsburgs had influence, or at least attempted to assert it.
We wandered around that area for a while, poking around through some chocolate and lace stores, perhaps grabbing a Belgian waffle (okay, maybe those are one of my 'worse' habits...), and taking lots of pictures. Since it wasn't raining at the moment and it was still relatively early, we figured we might as well go ahead and take a canal tour before the crowds or the weather struck. I thought it was a really neat way to see the town when I was there in the summer and had a hunch that Lauren would enjoy it as well. Although it was a little chilly with the wind channeled through the canals, at least we didn't get rained on.
Jeruzalemkerk, 15th century
Also, since the guides tell you everything as you go rather than us listening to a recording, I learned a few new tidbits that the fellow in the summer didn't mention. We picked up the canal tour near the Fish Market (Vismarkt) and thus ended there so I wanted to see if Johan Lootens, the artist who had painted my portrait over the summer and then given it to me for free, was there. I thought it would be nice to say hello, even if he didn't remember me, and I knowing Lauren, figured she would like his work and perhaps want to buy something. We found his girlfriend who surprisingly did recognize me and said Johan was working in a nearby café. We went to say hi, had a quick chat, then went back to his stand to see if anything caught our eye. I found a painting for Melynn's birthday/Christmas present and Lauren was really taken by one painted from almost the exact same location that we were standing, also on a rainy day, in a more interpretive and free style, but in the end decided against getting it.
Thus we continued on. Since the weather was holding, we decided to follow my DK Eyewitness Travel's "90-Minute Walk Around Brugge". Well, aside from the fact that we more than doubled the estimated time, lunch stop not included, it was a really neat and informative walk. We essentially went from the Market Square and looped northeast out to the windmills along one of the canals to the east before circling back to the square. Here are a few pictures from the stroll, including a great little place where we stopped for lunch, mostly drawn in by their amusing sign about when they are open:
Stadsschouwburg, the Municipal Theater, built in 1868
A Christmas beer with lunch to warm us up!
After we finally completed our tour of Brugge we decided to cap it off with a hike up the 366 steps to the top of the Belfry. We had a really neat birds-eye view of the ice rink and Christmas Market stalls below and also happened to get to the top just before sunset. I would recommend going up at this time of day if you have a chance!
View of the Market Square from about halfway up the Belfry
Looking out at the Vrouwekerk, Church of our Lady, and St Salvator-Kathedraal, the Brugge Cathedral, at sunset
I really loved this wrought iron double door
As we exited the belfry we were directed through a gallery with paintings and sculptures by Eugène Demane, Irénée Duriez, and Frank and Johan Messely. I especially liked the Messelys' paintings and Duriez' sculptures. Frank's work tended to be more focused on photorealism while Johan had some beautiful and serene patio garden scenes.
Frank Messely
Johan Messely
Irénée Duriez
After lingering in there, Lauren and I went out and answered the beckoning of the Christmas Market. I have to admit I was a little disappointed by their offerings, almost all of which were kitchy and could hardly be called hand-crafted. Not to mention it was really small. But perhaps Vienna's Christmas Markets have spoiled me. I've found that it's really pretty hard to beat those.
I was also amused by the variations on spelling of Germanic words that I know. "Braadworst" = "Bratwurst"? I didn't find out if they tasted similar. However the mingling scents of fried foods and spiced wine didn't do anything to ease our appetite, so we headed off up Vlamingstraat to find somewhere to get dinner. We ended up choosing Curiosa, a restaurant down in a cellar which was a bit on the fancier side but the food was really tasty and it was well worth it.
Although we were thoroughly sated when we left, we found ourselves at the Häagen-Dazs on the Market Square for a little dessert. As if we really needed ice cream on a night that cold. We went to another little bar to grab a drink before calling it a night since Sunday was our last day and we wanted to have some time in Brussels before catching our flights.
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